The best way to test  a system is to fill it with water and observe actual operation. During a wet test, fill chamber all the way. Slow the fill rate as Flout reaches the point of flooding. Flouts  in a partially filled chamber may not sink properly if forced. 

This is the primary checklist for all Flout systems. See additional check lists if there are other components.

1. An inspection opening must be provided. It should be over the flex connector/ vent area so Flout is visible when chamber is full. Example...

2. Is the NOTICE label removed? Is the inside of the Flout free of debris?

3. Is the surface where the Flout lands clean and smooth?

4. Are the clamps on the flex connector tight?

5. If the Flout is floating in water, is it fairly level? If the chamber is dry, does the Flout stay level when lifted slightly? If not, loosen a clamp and twist level. Retighten.

6. The following does not apply to Alternator and Cuebox systems.  Check drawdown: Flouts and vents are usually shipped as a set. Does the drawdown label of the Flout match the drawdown label of the vent? If drawdown  is in question, carefully raise the Flout straight up. The bottom of the weir  must be lower than the inlet and top of vent. Drawdown is distance from top of resting Flout to the bottom of the weir when raised almost straight up.

7. Check that Flout body is at or above the outlet. Slightly lower is ok but the Flout will be slower to shut off (re-float). If too low, Flout will never re-float.

8.  Check clearances: Is there room for the Flout to move through it's full cycle? If the Flout is single and long it maydrift. Is it far enough away from other Flouts and objects? If not, is a driftbar provided? Multiple Flouts do not drift. If a block is used for a shim, is it solid, not perforated? Is it wide enough to catch a drifting Flout?

9. Is the inlet pipe far enough away so the Flouts are not splashed? If it is close, is it baffled?

10. Go to the next section if system has an Alternator, a Cuebox, or is a retrofit.